Nikon E200 Microscope Overview
Read the Edited Video Transcript for ‘Nikon E200 Microscope Overview’
Hi, this is Chad with Munday Scientific. Today we’re going to talk about the Nikon E200 microscope. We’ve been selling a ton of these lately, so I wanted to give you a quick rundown of the microscope and highlight some of the key differences between the halogen (H) version and the LED version.
Let’s take a closer look—Mike, you want to come in?
First off, the microscope features a binocular head, which is attached using a thumbscrew. It comes standard with 10x eyepieces that have a 20mm field of view. Each eyepiece has a diopter for individual focusing. You also have the option to upgrade to a tilting head with 10x/22mm field-of-view eyepieces or swap in a standard binocular head if you prefer.
This model is equipped with Nikon’s E-Plan objectives: 4x, 10x, 40x, and 100x oil. It has a four-position nosepiece, but you can also use other types of objectives such as standard Plan, Plan Fluorite, or Plan Apo, depending on your application.
The stage is a right-handed coaxial mechanical stage. If you prefer to manually move the slide with your fingers, you can remove the slide holder by loosening the two Allen screws.
We’re going to raise the stage to its top position and drop the condenser out to show you how that works. To remove the condenser, simply loosen this thumbscrew here and slide it out.
This unit has a standard Abbe condenser. Since this is the halogen version (H), it often comes with a built-in filter holder for a blue filter, which enhances contrast under brightfield illumination. You can place the filter here, or on top of the dust glass if preferred. The holder screws in and out, and if your unit doesn’t come with it, you can easily add one.
Don’t worry if you hear the filter rattle around a bit—gravity and the holder will keep it in place. You can also add a retaining ring if desired.
Let’s talk about how to change the bulb in the halogen version. If your bulb burns out, grip the two small grooved areas, pinch, and slide the assembly out. Inside, you’ll find a 6V, 30W halogen bulb. We’ll include a link to replacement bulbs in the video description. If the socket ever fails, you can replace it—or you can upgrade to an LED conversion kit. We’ll include links to those options as well.
The power switch is located here, and the rheostat (light intensity control) is right next to it.
Now, let’s cover an issue we hear about from time to time—stage drift. If the stage slowly moves downward on its own, that’s usually due to focus tension being too loose. You can adjust the inner tension ring here to fix that. Once tightened, the drift should stop. We actually helped a customer resolve this issue over the phone recently and saved them a $300 service call.
To identify which version of the E200 you have, check the label. If it’s the halogen model, it will simply say “MV” or “E200.” If it’s the LED version, it will be clearly marked “E200 LED.” You can also remove the illumination housing and check for the LED module inside.
To reattach the head, line up the flange with the two notches and lock it down with the thumbscrew.
That’s pretty much it. The Nikon E200 is a fantastic microscope for veterinary clinics and classroom settings. It’s also a great choice for travel or pathology work if you pair it with a 2x objective or a flip-out condenser.
This scope is lightweight, durable, and easy to carry thanks to the built-in handle. The head can be rotated 180 degrees for compact storage—ideal for fitting in cabinets or shared lab spaces.
In terms of pricing, as of the time of this video:
- The E200 without a 100x objective is typically around $1,000
- With the 100x, it’s closer to $1,400
- Prices vary depending on whether you get the halogen or LED version
If you have any questions, feel free to email us at .
You can find us at microscopemarketplace.com if you’re interested in purchasing any of our Nikon scopes.
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